RAFAEL ALVAREZ — THE ALLEY HOUSE: The Streets of Baltimore

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And every night when I'd come home with every muscle sore, she'd drag me through the streets of Baltimore . .
— Gram Parsons


By Rafael Alvarez


It is my intention — not today and maybe not tomorrow, but before I die — to drive down every street in the City of Baltimore. In the spirit of my hometown, where two out of every three residents are afflicted with various degrees of A.R.D. (Ain’t Right Disorder), I will drive down some of the one-way streets the wrong way while looking at other drivers like THEY have a problem.

There are more than a thousand thoroughfares in Crabtown, from Abbotston Street on the edge of Clifton Park in East Baltimore to Yosemite Avenue south of Pimlico racetrack. (There don’t seem to be any streets in Baltimore that begin with Z, although far northeastern Baltimore County has Zelda Court, which may or may not be named for Mrs. F. Scott Fitzgerald, who spent some time in the vicinity.)

RAFAEL-ALVAREZThe newest street name in town is St. Crispins Lane, named for the 3rd century martyr and patron saint of shoemakers and leather works. In May, the City Council bestowed the title on a previously unnamed alley connected to St. Georges Road between Roland Avenue and Falls Road. (Cobblers in the area include Eugene’s Shoe Repair at 516 West Cold Spring Lane, and Salamone & Sons at 5008 Lawndale Avenue off Wyndhurst.)

One of my favorite stories about local arteries involves a former newspaper colleague from Calvert Street named Gerry Shields, now covering Capitol Hill for the Advocate of Baton Rouge, La.

Newly landed from the City of Brotherly Love, Shields was covering City Hall and trying to find a street mentioned by an aide to then-Council President Lawrence Bell.

To the best Shields could fathom (Philadelphia being the provincial patois closest to the one spoken here) the aide had directed him to “Uncle Charlie Terrace.”

Being the new guy on the city desk, Shields labored in silent frustration with the ADC Street Map and the “criss cross” directory, the only tools — along with a working phone — a reporter needed before the Internet.

“I didn't have the gumption to ask anybody,” said Shields. “When the aide said she lived on Uncle Charley Terrace I pretended I knew what she was talking about so I wouldn’t look like an idiot.”

What she was talking about was Auchentoroly Terrace, a short stretch of historic and architecturally significant homes — including a pair of 19th century mansions — on the southwest side of Druid Hill Park.

First owned by an Anglo immigrant named Buchanan four decades before the American Revolution, the area was named — so says a dusty biography — for the gentleman’s ancestral Scottish manse: Auchentorolie.

Somewhere along the line, officials changed the “ie” to a “y” just like you can have an Uncle Charlie and also have an Uncle Charley.

PONCABIRD PASS AND PULCHRITUDE

Outside of firemen, sanitation workers and well-scrubbed Mormon missionaries, few have traveled more miles of local road than the photographer Jim Burger and the pride of Hamilton, Billy Driscoll, a friend of the little man.

Burger’s keen eye caught the original name for 23rd Street on a slab of marble set in a building at the corner of North Charles: Shirk Street.

“Look for it on MapQuest or program it into your GPS and you’ll come up empty,” Burger said of the chiseled landmark, one of about a dozen or so remaining in town, including Brown (now 22nd Street) and Winan’s Terrace, barely legible near Broadway and Fayette.

As for Driscoll, his compass points toward the industrial waterfront of far southeast Baltimore.

Because he grew up in an age where a boy’s imagination was molded by the purple prose of the king of purple sage and pulchritude (see Zane Grey: His Life, His Adventures, His Women, Thomas Pauly, University of Illinois Press), Driscoll is fond of the western-tinged syllables of Poncabird Pass.

The short block by the Lever Brothers plant is home to the Poncabird Pub and within walking distance of the Night Shift, where women named Heaven do Olga Korbut impersonations without their clothes on.

So taken with Poncabird Pass is Driscoll that he penned an ode in homage:

Afore Free Haitians came to Fells
And prior to Poe’s written word
There came a visage to Baltimore’s shore
‘Twas the magnificent Poncabird

Her flight was of the sparrow
Swift and gay and free
Her fiery plumes were dazzling red
From crested crown to knee

Long revered by the Susquehannocks
For aphrodisial powers and taste
Gone by the time Captain Smith and crew
Made the Chesapeake a base

Amid the canopy of cranes and bridges
Near Rappolla’s potholed view
In memory now, her song rings out
Coo-coo, coo-coo, coo-coo . . .


[Editor's Note: Poncabird Pass takes its name from Ponca Street and Holabird Avenue in East Baltimore. Olga Korbut is a Soviet-born gymnast who won gold and silver medals in the 1972 and 1976 Olympics for the former USSR; she now lives in Scottsdale, Ariz.]


- o - o - o -


THE ALLEY HOUSE QUIZ

Answer to last week’s question: The immortal who shares the same initials as Edgar Allan Poe is Elvis Aron (just one “a,” that’s how the Tupelo birth certificate reads) Presley.

The free lunch at Enrico’s on South Haven Street was won (and graciously declined) by Wayne Countryman, former Baltimore Sun copy editor now toiling for the Daily Record.

This week’s question: Who can explain the origins of the name SCRABBLE ALLEY, a dead end that runs down from Charles Street toward St. Paul in front of Mercy Hospital?

As is custom, use of the Internet is considered cheating and the winner gets lunch with a bunch of aging newspapermen at Enrico’s.

 

 
Comments (7)
Srabble or Scrable
7 Thursday, 29 October 2009 19:42
Retired BPD
Scrabbel Alley was changed to Gravel Alley and Scrable Alley was changed to Scrabble Alley (maybe because the street signs were already made). Gravel Alley, or the original Scrabble Alley started between Franklin and Center. Scrable Alley ran St.Paul to Hargrove to Mulberry. Of course this was Baltimore in the 1840's. Flash forward and all that is left of the current Scrabble Alley (the original Scrable Alley) is that little dead end patch from Charles St.

As to the origin of the name, I got nothing, that's why I was rambling with a bunch of ancient history as to layouts of thoroughfares pre-Civil War. I can tell you that the alley came long before the game!
St Crispins Lane
6 Thursday, 29 October 2009 10:41
Pete Rock
Glad to see homage to shoemakers. My ex's uncle came through Ellis Island to Baltimore and had a shoe repair/leather shop on Holabird Ave for 52 years. During WWII, he honored Balt. soldiers every week. Marco Villa was a quiet humble man and the stories I heard him and his brothers share in his basement (where homemade beer and wine were made, at family gatherings about Balto in the '20's, '30's &'40's are etched forever. "Car! Who the hell could afford a car!"
The Streets of Baltimore
5 Monday, 26 October 2009 09:39
Mitch Dahne
Another great piece by a brilliant writer, been a fan along time.
SCRABBLE ALLEY? If Rafael could write the outcome it would be something like; young immigrants learning to read in the early 20th century played a Scrabble like game in the alley. The truth is probably less poetic, like there was a really great dinner in the alley, and someone misspelled the signature breakfast specialty Scrapple when making the street sign.

Peace

Mitch
Amazing
4 Friday, 23 October 2009 20:02
Uncle Donny
You never fail to amaze. You are a cornucopia of information, a plethora of knowledge. What more accolades can I bestow upon you. But your friendship, is something I will always be grateful for.
Poncabird Pass
3 Friday, 23 October 2009 16:36
Jeffrey Kosnett
Isn't it as simple as that this throughfare is a connector from Ponca St. to Holabird Ave.? There's FredHilton Pass in West Baltimore, which bolts Frederick Ave. to Hilton St. Any other such handoffs that actually get recognized by name?
I have
2 Friday, 23 October 2009 14:12
Dunn
I have driven down these streets, usually prompted by the media. Is it really that bad?, I ask. NO! I regulally drive my scooter, intentionally, to areas that the media says are the worst. I normally find a caring community, midguided and down on themselves. This I fully understand... The big way to live is though drugs or making the media headline.

If you live in a dense part of the city, it is not conjecture or theroy, it is in front of your face. As long as the Media and politiciians exploit it, it will happen.

Most residents are trying to make a better city... But the "David Simon" effect has a grip on us.
Street names
1 Friday, 23 October 2009 13:12
Rosalia Scalia
Loved this piece. Also have long been intrigued with the naming of streets in Baltimore. Bonaparte St, a tiny street off Harford Rd. near the Broadway intersection, had to be named for French emporer Napolean's brother, who had married Betsy Patterson, whose father had owned all the land in southeast Baltimore, part of which is now known as Patterson Park. (Patterson Park Ave.) Unhappy that his brother married a mere colonist, Napolean had the marriage annulled (after three children, of course) and married his brother off to an Austrian princess, leaving Betsy and her children to fend for themselves. The Pattersons didn't much appreciate the union either, upset that their daughter would cohort with what they had considered Eurotrash--the artistocracy. Every time I see Bonapart St. I wonder if Betsy Patterson Bonapart's story would have had a different ending had women had more rights.

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